Category Archives: Exhibit

REI KAWAKUBO/COMME DES GARÇONS

On view at THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, NEW YORK,
from May 4 to September 4, 2017

REI KAWAKUBO, the Tokyo-based designer, founded Comme des Garçons (“like some boys”) in 1969. Her garments baffle, bemuse and bewilder.

This exhibit is a MUST SEE for anyone interested in FASHION!!! The garments are beautifully displayed within the stark whiteness of the gallery surfaces where each and every garment “pops”. It is a visual feast for the eyes.

I like this quote from her…..”I wasn’t limited to the confines of a pattern. Not being educated, not being taught how to design, I was able to visualize in a completely different context. And I still seem able to draw upon the unconventional.”

Go to the exhibit and see for yourself. Here is a peek of some of my favorites with my captions below.

Camille

SEAM TAPE DRESS

RED DRESSES

EXAGGERATED GINGHAM

PUFFY PRINT DRESS

KNOTS

BALLERINA

LACY MANNEQUINS W/ BANDED SKIRTS

SENIOR BFA INTIMATE APPAREL STUDENT DESIGNS FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

Members of the UNDERFASHION CLUB, INC. witnessed the creative abundance of talent at the senior exhibition held in the John E. Reeves Great Hall at FIT on April 25, 2017. These garments, along with other categories (Special Occasion, Sportswear, Knitwear and Childrenswear), were on display as a preview to the FUTURE OF FASHION, the graduating seniors fashion show that will be presented on Monday, May 8th at 7pm ET. Visit http://fashionshow.fitnyc.edu for more information.

These talented FIT students will be graduating in May and we spoke with a few students to gain some insight on their next steps after graduation.

Many thanks to Professor Alexandra Armillas for inviting us to the preview. We are looking forward to the fashion show!

FIT PROFESSOR ALEXANDRA ARMILLAS &
CLELIA PARISI, CO-CHAIR OF THE UFC SAIG COMMITTEE

 

PROFESSOR ALEXANDRA ARMILLAS WITH STUDENTS
NICOLE WILSON & ALLISON HOWMANN

 

Here is a peek at the 25 Intimate Apparel garments on display. The backs have just as much detail and look just as wonderful as the fronts!

 

BFA GRADUATING SENIOR GARMENTS


 


GRADUATING SENIOR KATELYN ZAWIERUCHA

UFC scholarship recipient Katelyn Zawierucha is graduating in May, has two of her garments in the senior exhibition, and is this year’s first place winner of the Underfashion Club’s student design contest, which is held annually in conjunction with the Club’s FEMMY Gala. Katelyn loves intimates and sleepwear (her pajama set will be in the fashion show) and is looking forward to securing her first position in the industry. She is very excited about her upcoming trip to Paris and the SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA LINGERIE in July generously provided by Eurovet/Curvexpo as part of Katelyn’s prize package. She is very much looking forward to shopping the stores and seeing the show for the first time; and we’re looking forward to following up with her after the trip to share her experiences.

 

KATELYN’S GARMENTS 


GRADUATING SENIOR ANNELISE DAVIS

Another talented UFC scholarship recipient is Annelise Davis. Regarding the Underfashion Club, Annelise said, “I would have not been able to make my garments without the assistance of the scholarship.” Annelise learned to make original appliques and unique closure techniques while working for a costume company but she holds a special place in her heart for intimate apparel. After graduation in May her goal is to work in the industry. 

ANNALISE DAVIS

ALLISON HOWMANN 

NICOLE WILSON

MANUS x MACHINA

open

The Manus x Machina exhibit was on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan from May 5th – September 5th, 2016. It explored the changes in fashion design from the early 20th century to present day, focusing on the relationship between hand-made garments and those made by machines. The distinction between haute couture, garments that are designed to fit a singular model, and prêt-à-porter, garments that are mass-produced to fit a variety of body types, has faded from the traditional manmade vs. machine-made definition as technological developments thrive. Rather than presenting the practices as a dichotomy between man vs. machine, Manus x Machina celebrates how the collaboration of techniques has been advancing the future of fashion.

traditional

The traditional haute couture garments on display shared a glimpse into the cultural divide of manmade and machine-made garments from the early 20th century. During a time of fiscal turmoil, machines were known to be used for the mass-production of affordable clothing that was accessible to all classes. Only the high class could afford to commission haute couture garments, made to their unique measurements. It was a great luxury to have your garments carefully sewn together by the hands of a renowned designer, made to serve you best as an individual.

mid copy copy

Many of the garments on display from the mid to late 20th century showed an appreciation for machine-like structures, beginning to blur the lines of man vs. machine. Futuristic fashions and 3D-inspired designs embraced the contributions of technology to the growth and development of the fashion industry, as well as expressing a fascination with the recent rise of a digitized lifestyle. Machine involvement in fashion production has become accepted as a standard that allows for more efficient and precise construction methods. It also provided artists with new mediums to express otherworldly ideas.

3d

Present day designs unveiled a fresh, new method of production — 3D printing. This innovative technology allows designers to create the most intricate pieces to date in an entirely hands-free environment. With precision that’s down to fractions of the millimeter, the 3D printer gives fashion designers the ability to bring to life incredible designs that are more exact in their measurements than the hand could ever achieve. With such powerful and advanced technology within reach, we can only imagine what this will mean for the future of the fashion industry.

Join The Underfashion Club next week for a discussion on the subject with expert Luis Velazquez, titled The Sexy Side of 3D Imaging. It takes place on Tuesday, September 13th from 5:30pm – 7:30pm at The Cutting Room in Manhattan.

Register Here: http://underfashionclub.org/events/events.html

For more pictures of the Manus x Machina exhibit, check out our Facebook album: http://bit.ly/2cdKGOB

Screen Shot 2016-09-05 at 7.01.04 AM

FASHIONING THE BODY: An Intimate History of the Silhouette.

By CAMILLE BLOCK via Lingerie Briefs

Fashioning The Body

Every so often I uncover another jewel in Manhattan.  This time it is BARD GRADUATE CENTER and its Gallery Programs.  You have until July 26, 2015 to see FASHIONING THE BODY: An Intimate History of the Silhouette.  This exhibition is for all of us who appreciate the extraordinary ways in which women and men have shaped their bodies into distinctive silhouettes in the name of fashion.

Corset Art

The many devices and materials that have been used to shape silhouettes from the 17th century to today are included.  There is an edited collection of bras, however my interest was piqued when I saw all the panniers, corsets, bustles and crinolines.
But also check out the lacings, hinges, straps, springs and stretch fabrics that were used to alter the natural figure.

Historical Underpinnings

Take your time, there are three floors in an elegant town house that include complete outfits shaped by the hidden structural contraptions.  Also, moving mannequins display the mechanized reconstructions of the bustles, etc. in order to show the functionality of these undergarments. See this video https://vimeo.com/122575826

Historical Underpinnings 2

FASHIONING THE BODY was organized by Les Arts Decoratifs, PARIS and curated by Dr. Denis Bruna and is located at 18 West 86th Street in NYC, NY.

Museum at FIT: Dance & Fashion Exhibit

The Fashion Institute of Technology publicly presents the Dance & Fashion exhibit from September 13, 2014 until January 3, 2015 in the Museum at FIT.

IMG_8335

“The Museum at FIT (MFIT) presents Dance & Fashion, a stunning exploration of the relationship between these two embodied art forms. It was organized by the museum’s director, Dr. Valerie Steele, and set in a dramatic mise-en-scène created by architect Kim Ackert, the exhibition features nearly 100 dance costumes and dance-inspired fashions, ranging from the 19th century to the present, many of which have never been exhibited.”
Fashion Institute of Technology

The dim entry hall opens with a row of dark portraits. The slow chime of a piano echoes from Metamorphosis, a melancholic dance film with costumes to complement it (Ann Ray, 2014). At the end of the hall is a motion portrait that shows the dimensional complexity of simple fabric gestures, created by David Michalek for Dries Van Noten’s Inspirations in Paris (2014). Connected is a large, darkened room, surrounded by nearly 100 costumes that have impacted fashion history. Dress and adornment are essential to the visual allure of dance and fashion.

ob_908eb5_ann-ray-metamorphosis-fit-nyc-2
Aurelie Dupont & Jeremie Belingard
Photographed by Ann Ray – aka Anne Deniau – Museum at FIT, NYC

Pointe Shoes
Pointe ballet shoes of the 1830s and 1840s were very similar to the fashionable dress shoes of their time and soon became a metaphor for femininity. Classic ballet costumes were characterized by bodices paired with soft, full skirts – a look that has influenced many fashion designers since its inception. Recently, fashion designers have been invited to create costumes for dancers, blurring the line between high street apparel and athletic wear. Unlike designs meant for the runway, dance costumes are made for athletes with movement and performance in mind.

Screen-Shot-2014-08-12-at-6.05.02-PMVisionaire World
Photograph © The Museum at FIT

Leotards and Tights
Rehearsal attire was more influential to fashion than the costumes worn on stage. Leotards and tights as attire for ballerinas was popularized in Paris during the 1920s and, within decades, the New York ballet made it the default ballet costume. Fashion designers soon embraced the leotards and leggings associated with modern dance and ballet. By the 1940s, “funny tights” became fashionable among college girls.

Screen-Shot-2014-08-12-at-6.06.07-PMVisionaire World
Photograph © The Museum at FIT

Bakst Influence
Orientational style made a huge impact in the fashion world, driven by Léon Bakst’s costumes and sets for Scheherazade (1910). Once dominated by corsets, lace, and feathers, the fashion world pivoted towards harem skirts, beads, fringes, and voluptuousness. “Barbaric” colors such as orange, magenta, dark purple, and “very sharp emerald green” were reflected in fashion and interior design. Leaving boned corsets for bandeau tops, tunics, turbans, and flowing sashes allowed dancers to move freely. The flexibility of the waist allowed natural movements that are suitable for social dances such as tango.

Flamenco
Spanish dance and flamenco costumes acted as a driving force behind the popularity of ruffles, reds, and pinks in 1950s fashion. The display includes a flamenco-inspired lingerie pink dress, trimmed with black lace. Influential designers such as Oscar de la Renta appreciated the ruffles of Latin glamour and explored its possibilities in design. Seductive curves and “exotic” dress visibly influenced fashion ever since.

IL2014.11.3_20140805_01_375Valentino, woman’s costume for Sophisticated Lady, Fall 2012, lent by New York City Ballet. Photograph © The Museum at FIT.

Men’s Dance
In 17th-century baroque dance from Italy and France, males dressed as knights, heroes, and gods.  Male dance costumes seldom influenced men’s fashion because of attitudes towards men in tights. However, in 1992, skirts in men’s dance started becoming an acceptable alternative. It allows unrestricted movement with visual appeal.

Lingerie
The main character of Yves St Laurent’s 1965 Notre Dame de Paris, set in the middle ages, wore a trendy white mini dress that was laced in front and gave the impression of contemporary clothing. Pieces by Jean Paul Gaultier from 1993 shared elements of underwear as outerwear, tattooed designs, unitards, sailor tops, and other iconic looks. Some of these designs are seen in Metamorphosis by Ann Ray.

DANCEFIT3-articleLargeNoritaka Tatehana’s shoes for a 2011 Lady Gaga video
Credit: Linda Rosier for The New York Times

Modern Design
In recent years, designers have been pushing the boundaries of traditional designs. In 2013, Iris Van Herpon, an avant-garde couturier, created what she described as almost the opposite of the pink tutu. It’s the piece seen in the exhibit’s display art by the entrance. Her project was inspired by fashion, computer technology, a new shape for the pointe shoe, and a new modern ballet design. Ballerina shoes crossed with high heels in Christian Louboutin’s fetish pointe shoe (2014). Other artistic heels such as the fiercely futuristic Titanic ballerina pump and bold pointe shoes for Lady Gaga were also on display.

If you’re a classical dance or fashion lover in New York City, you’ll appreciate this exhibit.
Exhibition: Dance & Fashion

FIT’s Exposed: A History of Lingerie

Exposed: A History of Lingerie is organized by Colleen Hill. The exhibition is on view in the Fashion and Textile History Gallery at The Museum at FIT until November 15th, 2014.

FIT Lingerie

The Exposed: A History of Lingerie exhibit holds a stunning collection of intimates. It features a diverse range of garments, sharing pieces of both Eastern and Western fashion history. From hard lingerie such as corsets, bustles, and structured bras to soft lingerie like unstructured slips, nightgowns, and panties, the exhibit has something of interest for every lingerie lover.

The chronology begins with a corset from 1770, extends through the Renaissance, and includes modern garments from brands we know and love. Lingerie-inspired fashion is crucial to all of fashion history. Corsets alone were essential to women’s fashion for over 400 years. They represented valued social traits such as class and discipline.

Nightgowns from around the world and throughout the ages brought elegance to every corner of the exhibit. The flowing layers of fabric, draping ribbons, jeweled cuffs, delicate frills, lace detailing, and other embellishments shared many of fashion’s feminine expressions. Garments were white until the 1880s, when dye became widespread.

Pieces from the 20th century and beyond were colorful and practical, changing to meet the demands of fashion. Stockings and hosiery came into fashion in the 1960s with the rise of miniskirts and exposed legs. In 1978, Vogue announced the start of “lingerie fever” as intimate apparel became a hot topic in fashion and the media. In the ’90s, push-up bras gained popularity, bringing the Wonderbra skyrocketing sales since its birth in 1961.

The exhibit’s modern pieces revealed just how much lingerie has changed. Victoria’s Secret garments from the ’90s shared a more mature aesthetic from the past of today’s lingerie giant. The fierce Agent Provocateur sets, colorful Hanky Panky thongs, and artfully structured Suki Cohen pieces illustrated how diverse intimate apparel has become. The beautiful collection of lingerie from throughout the ages left us eager to see what the future holds. What better way to strengthen the future of our industry than to support the creative students who will soon shape it?

See the exhibit for yourself before November 15th!

There’s a slideshow and description on FIT’s website.
http://fitnyc.edu/22187.asp

KILLER HEELS: THE ART OF THE HIGH-HEELED SHOE

By Camille Block

photo-(2)

If you love shoes, then you must see the shoe exhibit at the BROOKLYN MUSEUM that runs until February 15, 2015.
There are over 160 historical and contemporary high heels from the sixteenth century through the present….
every shoe style imaginable from foot binding shoes to Louboutins, Pradas and even a pair resembling horse shoes- and oh, there’s also a shoe fashioned as a hat.
For lingerie fanatics, what better accessory than a great pair of heels!

photo

photo-(1)

studded boots

Inspirational Lingerie Feast ~ Jean Paul Gaultier

jean_paul_gaultier-650x543

If you have even the slightest interest in lingerie, then Jean-Paul Gaultier at the BROOKLYN MUSEUM was an exhibit to see.  From start to finish this gallery of fashion was chock full of inspirational ideas, not just for the lingerie enthusiasts, but for all fashionistas.

IMG_8191

His mastery of different cultures and combinations in his dresses, coats, and suits were just as awe inspiring…..there were dozens of visual delights in his denim, plaids, prints, velvets, leathers and pinstripes.

Untitled-16

Madonna knew what she was doing when she collaborated with Gaultier to do her “corsets” for her Blond Ambition World Tour back in 1990.”  Truly c’est magnifique!  And who knew that lace could look so cool.  In his hands, he creates works of art.

via-thehootblog.org_

Velvet, satin, sequins, leopard, shirring, laces, tulle, fishnet, corsetry, trapunto, texture, zippers.   Need I say more!

Untitled-21

And oh!, the talking heads.  Not the group, but quite a few of the mannequins had faces that moved.  Their eyes blinked, mouths spoke and one even sang opera.  Pure genius.

The exhibit was from October 25, 2013-
February 23, 2014

**Camille has been in the Lingerie business for 30+ years and has won several awards including a TOMMY award. She was the Senior VP for Design & Merchandising at Gelmart International and is currently on the faculty of FIT

 

The Lingerie Française Exhibition

The Lingerie Française Exhibition at the London Film Museum is featuring 100 years of influential French lingerie! They’re displaying 260 of lingerie, video installations, and a life-sized hologram delivering a trans-historic striptease. Read more about it and see a few pieces for yourself on The Huffington Post.
http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2012/09/28/lingerie-francaise-exhibition-100-years-of-french-lingerie-_n_1922643.html